How to make a Maille Coif, 16g, 3/8id, 4in1 part 1

This is the first method I learned and the one I use to make maille coifs. The pattern I will be explaining is for a 3/8id 16g 4in1 coif. It starts with one link at the center, building rows outward with column expansions to form the shape of the head. I've attached pictures marking these column expansions with brass rings. As a note on terminology when I refer to a row I mean the rings that trace a circle around the center and by a column I mean a line of rings from the center to the edge.
To begin, place six closed rings on one open ring and seal it. The center ring will be called the first row and the six around it will be called the second row. For the start of the third row you will want it to look like the picture "Coif row 3 no expansions", that is our target. To do that, grab two of the rings in your second row, so that you are pinching them between your index finger and thumb. The center ring should be hanging below them and the four other rings of row two below that. Take an open ring and weave it through the center of both rings you're holding and close it. If you had to put the piece down to close the ring, pick it back up so the same two rings are between your finger and thumb again. As you hold the rings they should overlap each other in a way that the right side of the left ring is behind the left side of the ring on the right. Four rings should still be dangling from the center ring. Out of those four, pull the ring farthest on the left up with the other two. It should be held so that its right side is behind the left ring's left side. Now weave an open ring through only the left ring and the ring you just pulled up and close it. The ring you closed must only be attached to the two rings on the left otherwise your piece will not form correctly. Then pull up the leftmost ring of the three remaining ones to be staggered behind the last one you pulled up. Weave a ring through those two and close it. Continue this with the last two rings. Once that is done you will need to connect the last ring you pulled up with the right side ring of the first two you connected. You should be holding the last ring you pulled up between your finger and thumb with all the others somewhat loose. The right side ring of the first pair should be dangling below. Pull it up so that its right side is behind the left side of the ring you are holding, weave a ring through and close it.
Set the piece down and arrange the rings so that it looks like the picture "Coif row 3 no expansions". If it does then we can move on to the expansion columns for row three. To do this look at the picture "Coif row 3". This picture is exactly the same as "Coif row 3 no expansions" except that it has brass rings where the expansions will be placed. These extra rings will keep the coif from folding in on itself and keep it expanding out over the crown of your head. To put in the expansions place an open ring where every brass ring is in the picture. Notice that it is only attached to one ring on row two and it is in between the rings you just placed in row three. When your piece looks like the one in the picture then you may move on to row four.
You will create the base of row four the same way you did the base of row three. Take two rings of row three and weave an open ring through. Then shift over so you have the left ring of the pair and the next one in row three and close an open ring onto them. It will probably be easier for you to weave the open ring through the two from behind rather than forward because of how they are laying. Continue working around the perimeter until you are finished. Remember that every ring you've added to row four should only be connected to two rings on row three.
The expansions for row four will be a little different from row three. In the picture "Coif row 4" you will see that the brass rings are only connected to every other ring in row three rather than every ring. Since there are only six expansions in this row set out six rings. Only pick your open rings from these six to avoid putting in more than necessary. Connect your first ring to a ring in row three in between two you've already put in. You can either count over one ring in row three and put one on the next or count over two rings in row four and put one between the second and third rings over, attached to row three. Either way will connect to the same ring. Once you have used all six of the rings you've set out you should be done. Row four should look as it does in the picture.
Build the base of row five the same as the others and add in expansions every other column. Use the picture to guide you. Row six has no expansions. Once the base is completed you can move on to row seven. This row has expansions every other column. Row eight doesn't have any column expansions and so it is a regular row. The ninth one is a bit of a special case. This is the last row you will add in expansions until you make the mantle over your shoulders. The amount of column expansions I have in the pattern will make the coif large enough to accommodate an average sized head wearing an arming cap. The extra rings are placed in row nine so that there are four rings in between them. As you come to the end of your perimeter though you will have five rings in between your first and last rings. You can see this at the top of the picture "Coif row 9". If you think you will need a wider coif then you can add some more rings into this row. Most people won't need to but if you do I don't recommend adding in more than four extra rings and you should place them directly across from each other. Otherwise the coif will be lop-sided.
Continue on making regular rows without any expansions. Somewhere around row twenty-seven you will have to start making a hole for your face. Aside from that it is pretty straightforward until your coif extends to your shoulders and you begin forming the mantle. I will explain the fitting on this in part two of the tutorial. Hopefully you found the content descriptive enough but if not feel free to ask any questions you need to. Enjoy your project.

Coif row 3 no expansions.JPG362.72 KB
Coif row 3.JPG357.91 KB
Coif row 4.JPG349.15 KB
Coif row 5.JPG369.16 KB
Coif row 6.JPG375.85 KB
Coif row 7.JPG359.95 KB
Coif row 8.JPG344.64 KB
Coif row 9.JPG365.35 KB

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