Repairing and Fitting a Maille Hauberk 4, shoulder gorges and finishing work

This part of the tailoring was pretty easy for me. I inserted two gorges on the shoulder blades to allow for more movement. When the arms move across the chest the sleeves of a hauberk pull on the back. Having the extra maille in this area will greatly increase flexibility and comfort. Adding shoulder gorges is a great alteration to make to any hauberk without them.
The first thing to do was to make a split in the back over the shoulder blades where my gorge would be inserted. Make sure to space them evenly apart in reference to the collar otherwise they will end up being asymmetrical. Also don't make your split under the collar. After this was done I began to work on my gorge. They look like rectangles of maille and I made mine 20 rows long by 7 columns wide. It probably would have been better if I made them a bit wider but they turned out just fine. Next I selected a row to insert them on, once again making sure that both are evenly placed.
The second stage is to close them up. They should look like the bottom left section on the "initial shoulder expansion" picture I've attached. Find the middle ring of top edge of your gorge and perform a column contraction. Then fill in the rest of the row normally. Continue the column contractions every other row until the gap is completely filled. It is important to do this every other row and not every row. I initially did the contractions every row and on the top left side of the first picture you can see how tight it made the weave. The right side is done correctly. In the next picture there is a view of it completely finished. The third picture is a close up of the upper right shoulder contractions.
The other work I did was to widen the entire torso. I pre-made some sections that ran the entire length of the shirt and inserted them. Pretty basic maille work to do that, though consuming of time and materials. Lastly I built up the collar so that it would sit on the trapezius muscles of the neck to support it. Otherwise it would rest on ends of the shoulder, which is fatiguing. Then I finished it off with a V-neck and was done. I also put a split in the bottom front for the legs since it goes down to just above the knees.
This completes all the alterations I made to this hauberk except that I will still need to do some more widening on the torso. I hope all of these work logs were informational and would help anyone looking to tailor their own hauberk.

Initial Shoulder Expansion.JPG1019.55 KB
Back View Close.JPG991.33 KB
Shoulder Expansions Top Right.JPG1.26 MB

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