Repairing and Fitting a Maille Hauberk 2, general repairs and armpit

The first work I did on the hauberk was to patch the holes, fix loose rings, and other oddities like contractions in the weave that had no purpose. Simple repairs in getting the piece back to a homogenous 4in1 pattern. I did my work on a mannequin, which makes it much easier to tailor a hauberk and do fine work. With it on one you can see exactly how it is hanging and adjust to changes in shape as you work.
Next I worked on the gaping holes in each armpit. This moved forward in a couple of steps. To begin with I cleaned up the edges of the holes, taking out and putting in rings until they were nice and straight. From there I thought about a couple of different kinds of closures I could do. There is a 90-degree seam where the banding in the pattern is attached opposite of each other, but I chose to do a closure where the banding comes down and then sweeps off to the sides. I've attached pictures of this closure along with a 90-degree seam. The initial "sweeping" closure blew out when he tried it on. When I re-did it I used a 90-degree seam so that's why I have pictures of both. Before I finished the armpit the last time I removed the sleeve and did a lot of work on it. In my next log I'll write about the adjustments I made to them.

Initial Armpit Closure.JPG352.35 KB
Armpit 90 degree Seem.JPG1.24 MB
Glenalth's picture


I had been debating trying some small diamond gussets added under the arms on shirts with tighter sleeves, any thoughts on that?

Mihr's Best Friend

Tiwaz's picture

6:1 anyone

so I've been working on a 6:1 off and on for about 3 years, it's getting close to completion but the armpits are still fairly open as I haven't found an easy way to close them up that will be comfortable and functional. any ideas? Better yet anyone wanna do them for me?

Gussets reply

If the sleeve is close fitting to the arm a gusset would be necessary to allow the full range of movement. The half of the diamond under the armpit on the torso is going to be contracting down towards the waist. That part of it is only neccessary if the person it is being tailored for is slender, but if they have a belly you might want to leave that one out. The opening of the sleeve where it meets with the torso needs to be around 22" to 24" around to accomodate most people. If you want it to be wider close to the body and tighter down the sleeve then you'd have a triangle gusset inserted to do that.
Let's say that I was working on a 16g, 3/8id, 4in1 shirt traditionally oriented with horizontal banding around the torso and vertical banding on the sleeve. I want the opening of the sleeve to be about 23" around where it meets the torso and then to taper to 18" on the bicep. With this ring size and weave roughly every three rows will give you an inch. So 23"x3=69 rows and 18"x3=54 rows. This means I would need to reduce the circumference of the sleeve by 16 rows, row contractions pull out two rows at a time, so that's 8 contractions over let's say 6" of length or one every other column.
Those are the only thoughts I have off the top of my head. I hope your project turns out well and if you need any help on it just send me a message.

6:1 anyone reply

From the picture I can see that the banding orientation on your shirt is moving horizontally across the torso and also on the sleeve. This is where you are running into problems. For the easiest and most functional way to add on your sleeves you should have them oriented so the banding runs vertically from shoulder to wrist. I have a picture of a hauberk up on the armor rack that will show you what this should look like. What you will want to do is take off your sleeve, split it open and rotate it 90 degrees, then re-attach it. From there fill it in, do a closure on the armpit and that should take care of it for you. Let me know how it goes.

Tiwaz's picture

the torso hangs horizontally,

the torso hangs horizontally, the sleeve when held straight out would hang vertically, however when it's on my body it hangs horizontally due to the fact that my arm isn't typically straight out...this is how maille is suppose to be made. Here's a larger picture of the maille, I can get an even larger one if needed. I've also extended the sleeve another 2-3 inches and another inch on the torso (the back half of the shirt hangs 3 or so rows lower)

The issue I was having was I tried to do expansions under the arm and simply expand to create a bowl in the armpit area I believe this is a poor choice. Ive since closed the armpit area so that even when my arm is straight up there is only about a 2-3 inch gap between the torso and arm sections. I'll try to get some pictures of this asap so you can see what I'm talking about.

The issue I'm having is that these are either 1/4 or 5/16 ID rings at 15 or 16 ga. which at a 6:1 weave leaves little room for play. Expansions and Contractions are nonexistent at the moment as it's simply too difficult to properly fit it to myself without either a body double of some kind or another mailler weaving it on me.

the torso hangs horizontally, reply

To explain this properly I'm going to have to put up some pictures. I don't know how to attach them into a reply so I'm going to respond in a blog post.

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